Though I graduated a few years ago from UCLA in two fields that are considered incubators for critical thinking – Women’s Studies & Chicana Studies – I have discovered that being outside of the classroom makes it more of challenge to articulate myself on deeper sociopolitical issues and have realized my audience is quite different. This particular piece is a discourse that I’ve wanted to create with readers for some time, so I look forward to your feedback.
I spotted some beautiful photos on Honestly…WTF yesterday and was immediately attracted to the vibrant colors. The designs of Mara Hoffman’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection were gorgeous, the jewelry out-of-this world, and the designs evoked a warm familiarity within me, yet I could not reconcile my love for the colors and prints with my knowledge of cultural appropriations and their implications. Whenever I hit a wall in my thought process regarding fashion, ethnicity, and its consequences, I head over to one of the smarted blogs on the web, Thread Bared, for inspiration and answers. It just so happens they wrote an article just a few days ago entitled “Unintentionally Eating the Other” which addressed the recent “yellowfacing” of model Crystal Renn for Vogue Japan. This piece spoke to me on so many levels, especially regarding cultural appropriations, race, and why seeing Mexican designs and prints on the runway evoked this reaction in me. These two particular passages, so intelligently encapsulate what I want to say:
This desire for transformation through the Other is not unique to fashion; it is connected to a much longer history of what Black feminist scholar bell hooks (always in lower case) calls ‘imperialist nostalgia’: the longing of whites to inhabit, if only for a time, the world of the Other. Bodily transcendence through sartorial and cosmetic play is enacted by the consumption of otherness – a ‘courageous consumption,’ in hooks’ words – because it is about ‘conquering the fear [of racial difference] and acknowledging power. It is by eating the Other,’ hooks explains, ‘that one asserts power and privilege.’
To quote hooks again, ‘eating the other’ – hooks’ term for the consumption of difference – offers: ’A new delight, more intense, more satisfying than normal ways of doing and feeling. Within commodity culture, ethnicity becomes spice, seasoning that can liven up the dull dish that is mainstream while culture.’
My grandparents were forced to attend segregated schools for Mexican children here in Los Angeles County many decades ago, encouraged to abandon their heritage but nonetheless prevailed. Fortunately, time has seen progress, but I still hear anti-Mexican rhetoric in the streets and on TV (the last Republican debate). For this reason, when I see the fabrics, designs, and culture of Mexico on display during fashion week, I wonder what it would be like if the people of Mexico and the immigrants who came here to the US got the respect their appropriated clothes do come fashion week.
A tapestry I admired while in Mexico this summer, made by the Otomi people
photos via Honestly…WTF
Yes, yes, yes, yes. Give them the pretty and don’t discuss all the damage and tragedy of a culture. I could go on and on about the racism, segregation, etc that was so present in even just the generation before ours ( in my family), and that is still happening at schools and in our mainstream thoughts today. But Mexican prints are ok, they are safe, they are just colors. But Mexican children need to go back where they came from. It ignores everything. It’s one of the many reasons I don’t understand the world of fashion.
You got me all worked up so early in the morning! This makes me think about those necklaces you posted a while ago. I was thinking about them after and the title of the collection, Conquistadora, started bothering me. I don’t know anything about the designer, but if it’s a way to make a statement of women holding power in a way that men were so accomplished in that murdered entire civilizations, then I don’t want none of that.
Getting worked up is sometimes a good way to start the day. You are totally right about “Conquistadora” btw, and I’m so happy you mentioned that. Thanks so much for your input, it is really appreciated.
I am so glad that blogs like yours and Threadbare are continuing to open thoughtful and insightful discourses about the deeper meanings and implications of our everyday actions. Keep it up. Stay strong! And Fight the good fight!!!
Thanks for the kind words,Natalie! And I think you really hit the nail on the head w/ “I wonder what it would be like if the people of Mexico and the immigrants who came here to the US got the respect their appropriated clothes do come fashion week.” Cultural appropriation is about “appreciating culture” but it’s not about engaging w/ histories, people, historical violence, etc. It’s a way of selectively engaging w/ cultural difference through objects that can’t talk back. So, as I just read recently, cultural appreciation doesn’t create political and social equalities. It actually depends on inequalities.
Your insights always help me find a way to articulate myself and for that I am forever thankful. Keep doing the great things you’re doing and I’ll keep reading!
Well said, Natalie. Look forward to any subsequent posts as it’s important to be able to talk about these things and know and be aware of the deeper messages on topics like fashion that appear so light hearted. And I know what you mean in that it’s easy to feel removed from important discussions when we’re no longer in college taking cultural studies classes.
These posts that challenge us to think critically are the best! You’re one of my favorite people in the world!
Oh Diana, how I miss thee!
Ditto on the respect issue. The fashion industry loves to pat itself on the back whenever it deems “ethnic” clothing and jewelry to be in style. The funny thing is they think that they are somehow paying tribute to these cultures! The “slave” earrings in Italian Vogue? Then when they are called out on their mess, they fall all over themselves to come up with some ridiculous statement about honoring the cultures that they steal from. Are you respecting African, Asian, and Chicano culture by charging thousands of dollars for your knockoff crap? Are you donating any of those earnings to help out those that you steal from? Yeah, I didn’t think so. As much as I love fashion, there is so much backwards thinking that I wonder how I can love it at all.
Thank you for addressing this, Natalie. I’m still processing it all. You definitely hit the nail on the head when you talk about giving props and respect to cultures. It is very hypocritical (of the powers that be) to praise a culture for their influence on style, yet degrade the same influential culture when it comes to heritage and political interest. Thanks again for keeping it real! xo
You have no idea how much I appreciate this post. First of all, bell hooks is definitely a womyn that has made a great influence in my life. And you’re absolutely right. Anti-Mexican rhetoric is definitely prevalent in our society. It’s also unfortunate that this rhetoric is shared among anyone who is deemed foreign (i.e. people of color).
YES YAY AHH and did i tell you that i am an (prospective as of right now because i have to submit my proposal for a double major) ethnic studies major! you da best.
Thank you so much for this thoughtful post. I’ve been thinking about similar topics in fashion and design, and have been searching for more design and fashion blogs that represent different points of view and celebrate other cultures. This post from Compai blog was also helpful in getting me to think about these issues http://www.compaiblog.com/2011/09/diversity-in-design.html
Please keep writing about this topic!